A
small gossip turned into real trip. Dhorpatan Hunting reserve is one and only
hunting reserve in Nepal. It covers 1,325 Sq.Km and encompass to three
districts Baglung, Myagdi and Rukum.DHR is famous for hunting nationally and
internationally but for us Dhorpatan is famous for Potatoes.
I still remember
people form there used to visit our place to trade potato, sheep and horses.
Form my childhood days I have been told stories relating to Dhorpatan. In
secondary level our school used take Dhorpatan as an educational tour. Unfortunately our school stopped to take such
type of tour to DHR because of recent ongoing civil war. That lacking always
push me to reach Dhorpatan to explore and experience landscape, living style,
culture and many more. My expectation prior going to Dhorpatan as a flat meadow land
where i can sit one corner and unwind myself looking to grazing cattle in lush
green grass, in front of mirroring mountains and dense forests.
The
real adventure started from there, I lost my motorcycle stand spring while
riding to tough terrain. I tied my stand with the help of rope and kept riding.
Because of worse condition of road I need to stop in between but, not having
spring in my stand I manually need to untie the rope and stop the bike. This
was really headache to me. My pillion (Brother in law) many times got off form
the bike and pushed the bike to escape form difficult trail. Few hours of
struggle we reached to the place where we need to cross Bhuji river is also the
starting point to climb hill till Deurali. I went and saw the condition of
flowing water. Though, Bhuji is small at the point of crossing but, all water
is following form one point which has high vigor so, I choose not to cross form river. The
alternate path is narrow wooden bridge (Phadke). I crossed river using phadke which was
thrilling moment for me. After crossing Bhuji river we climbed hill till Deurali.
In between I was badly stuck in red wet mud. My front and back tires of bike
were submerge in wet mud. I and brother in law made our own way by arranging
stones. We fought forty minutes to escape from there. Slippery, sharp turning,
rough surface, water on road tough incline were the features of that road. We
mate and talk to village boys who came forest to collect firewood and grass for
buffalo. We had interesting talk to them this reminds my childhood days, their
simplicity and humanity truly touched me. They helped me in difficult terrain
to escape without asking help. My pillion was habituated to get down form the
bike in difficult situation. In some
places its like a trap to ride. But, in front of our dedication, courage and
hard work those terrain did not stop our journey. Skidding and tilting were
become normal for us. My right looking glass, guar liver and brake liver got problem
while tilting and scratching in rough road.
It was
26th of September, 2017. I and brother in-Law started our journey form Galyang.
I choose to reach DHR via motorcycle. We started our journey riding through Mid
Hilly Highway. The road was oky, semi gravel and semi black topped. Dharam
khola and I were heading to same direction until I reached to Kharbang. Kharbang is a small city lies between the
bank of Dharam Khola and Badighat river.
From Kharbang I left Dharam Khola behind and rode along with Badhighat.
I was in same direction with Dharam Khola but, with Badighat I was riding
opposite of its direction till Burtibang. Burtibang, the getaway to DHR located
at the bank of Badighat and Taman river, is also one of the 10 cities along
with Mid Hills Highway and North south
link roads in all five
development regions to establish as new cities by government of Nepal. The objective is to reduce
migration from hill and mountains by facilitating health, education,
transportation, communication and increasing the possibility of development of
economic potential. I was desperately eager to see Burtibang. When I reached
there initially i observed RCC houses built everywhere. I saw infrastructure like
bus park, a hospital work in progress, many groceries, restaurants, lodges,
school, unpaved road, etc. Suddenly I had question in my mind, all empty land
has been occupied, no more land to expand city in future, how government will establish
it as a sophisticated city to accommodate 50,000 people? Because it’s already a
city having basic facilities. Burtibang is the modern town where we can find
necessary things to purchase. Being the last town I refill petrol and checked
motorcycle condition to avoid mechanical failure to my trip.
Onwards
Burtibag is unknown to me according to the map need to ride only 34 Km from
Burtibang to reach DHR. Soon i Crossed Burtibang I noticed road was rough, uncomfortable,
bouncy and bumpy. Crossing Badighat river through suspension bridge was
challenging as well as exciting. I found nature unspoiled and pristine. We left
mid hilly highway form Burtibang and connected to North south link road (Slajhandi - Dhorpatan) highway. This highway
connect south (Saljhandi Kapilvastu)to north (Dhorpatan Baglung) could be
backbone for the development of economic activities in future. Blue clear sky,
green hill, diverse landscape, pristine climate, traditional lifestyle, fresh
flowing Bhuji Khola all together contribute to create enchanting environment. In
motorable road there was high traffic of pedestrian, mules, horses and sheep
not vehicle. I saw people use their horses and mules to transport goods. Riding
opposite direction of beautiful Bhuji Khola was challenging and interesting.
Form Bobang the road condition went worse, I road to tough terrain which
comprise of water, bouncy terrain, red wet mud, and full of round stone.
Really, that was the toughest terrien I had ever rode in my life. Although, I
rode to many remote places in Nepal like Muktinath, Lomangthang, Manang etc I
find this track tough. After two hours of ride we stopped in small shop to refresh
ourselves. There we meet Mr. Anand who came form Rukum. He shared his
experience about the hidden beautiful landscape which lies in between way to Dhorpatan
and Rukum which are not expose and very few people know about it. Further, he
said none of the vehicle were reach to Dhorpatan this year followed by monsoon
so you need to be very careful. His saying put me in dilemma what should I do?
Should I leave motorbike here and start trek or shall I take risk to reach Dhorpatan
via motorcycle? I had debate myself for five minutes. After my own debate to
myself I decided to reach Dhorpatan via motorcycle.
The
real adventure started from there, I lost my motorcycle stand spring while
riding to tough terrain. I tied my stand with the help of rope and kept riding.
Because of worse condition of road I need to stop in between but, not having
spring in my stand I manually need to untie the rope and stop the bike. This
was really headache to me. My pillion (Brother in law) many times got off form
the bike and pushed the bike to escape form difficult trail. Few hours of
struggle we reached to the place where we need to cross Bhuji river is also the
starting point to climb hill till Deurali. I went and saw the condition of
flowing water. Though, Bhuji is small at the point of crossing but, all water
is following form one point which has high vigor so, I choose not to cross form river. The
alternate path is narrow wooden bridge (Phadke). I crossed river using phadke which was
thrilling moment for me. After crossing Bhuji river we climbed hill till Deurali.
In between I was badly stuck in red wet mud. My front and back tires of bike
were submerge in wet mud. I and brother in law made our own way by arranging
stones. We fought forty minutes to escape from there. Slippery, sharp turning,
rough surface, water on road tough incline were the features of that road. We
mate and talk to village boys who came forest to collect firewood and grass for
buffalo. We had interesting talk to them this reminds my childhood days, their
simplicity and humanity truly touched me. They helped me in difficult terrain
to escape without asking help. My pillion was habituated to get down form the
bike in difficult situation. In some
places its like a trap to ride. But, in front of our dedication, courage and
hard work those terrain did not stop our journey. Skidding and tilting were
become normal for us. My right looking glass, guar liver and brake liver got problem
while tilting and scratching in rough road. 
Rudra
Tall is located near to Deuarli which not only rich in natural biodiversity but
also carries the religious values. Local believes that this is the inception of
Rudwarati Ganga which connects RURU area in Palpa. Army Batalian Shree Hanuman
Dhoj Gulma from Dhorpatan is involved in the protection and marketing of Rudra
tall.
Deurali,
it’s a connecting pass to Dhorpatan valley. Where there is a check post
established by DHR and one tea shop. Form here partial Dhorpatan valley can be
viewed. After crossing standing hill, view of beautiful valley from Deurali was
fantastic. Grazing cattle and fresh flowing Uttar Ganga river added value to
that scenery. This view took our all tiredness and we felt like recharged.
There are two trails form Deurali right one lead to the Girnachur and left one
lead to Uttar Ganga temple and Rukum district. We decided to visit Uttar Ganga Temple
first and headed left form Deurali. The inception of Utter Ganga is Utter Ganga
temple is also famous religious place in Dhorpatan. There are 22 natural water
fountains right to the temple. Amazing thing is that goddess of this temple
doesn’t like roof on it. That is why Uttar Ganga temple is roofless including
natural pound inside. Every year on the
day of “Janai Purinima” religious fair is held. Where local devotees
participated in that fair. The mysterious thing is that, “ pond inside temple
turned into black color to consume blood. So devotee sacrifice sheep as means
to worship Uttar Ganga goddess” said local youth Mr. Binod. The scenery form
the periphery of Uttar Ganga temple is beautiful to the long end we saw flat
meadow grazing cattle in front of Dhaulagiri Mountain. Different DHR blocks are
lies right and left side of valley. Although the height of DHR valley is 2850
meter but those blocks heights range up to 5500m height. Hunting is permitted
to specific blocks only. For hunting hunters cannot hunt as per their wish
because DHR consists of endangered animals also. Female and young animals are
not allowed to hunt mostly hunters are allowed to hunt overcrowded animals
like Thar and Jharal said officer of
DHR. Hunters should go through legal process and must arrange necessity by
themselves.
BK and
Magar are the inhabitants of this area however we saw Tibetan refugee as well.
Local people coordinate with Tibetan refuge to breed and sale of horses. Life is so tough in this altitude. Normally
people in this area have house in lower altitude and higher attitude area
Bobang and Dhorpatan valley respectively. According to the climatic situation
they shift Bobang and Dhorpatan. Local said in winter people shift to Bobang
lower altitude area and in summer live in higher altitude area Dhorpatan. Potato is the main production in this area
beside potato apple also produce by local farmer. I also saw tomato, radish and
carrot grown there. The quality of
potato is famous not only nationally but also internationally. “Before 6, 7
years ago, potato used to export directly to Japan, chartered air craft use to
land in Dhorpatan Airport to transport potatoes. Now, none of the airlines
schedule flight here” said owner of community guest house. Bushes grown
everywhere and the airport converted into play ground like football, volleyball
and grazing field.
I saw
very less infrastructural development in DHR. Basic facilities for tourism
supply like food, accommodation, clean drinking water, health information
center and security must available within DHR. Another my experience is that
why should people visit DHR if you are not hunter? To see only flat meadow and
wet land a temple and a gumba? Apart from this how tourist can spend his or her
time either domestic or international? In my view different types of activities
can organize for longer stay of tourist could be cultural, sport, natural etc.
Likewise, Introduce of Gurilla trek could be another source of tourism
attraction connecting Myagdi and Rukum district. At present time DHR is unspoiled, untouched
and pristine destination. I heard 300 MW hydro power electricity DPR is under
process. What if the pride of DHR all flat meadow land and Uttar Ganga temple
submerge in huge dam? Concern stakeholders of tourism development must coordinate
with hydro project team for the sustainable development of tourism. If that
open land converted into a big dam or lake certainly there is possibilities of
increase in water tourism but, the temple must be protected. Idea could be a
temple above the water like Tal Barabhi in Fewa lake. Being protected area
carrying capacity must be clearly identified for the longer benefits of tourism.
According to Nepal tourism statistic 2016 only 91 foreigners visited to DHR at
the same time 87391 foreigners were visited to Chitwan National Park. A massive variation can be figure out form
this data. Question appears here why DHR was unable to attract foreign
travelers? Is it a fault of tourism policy or else? In my point of view DHR is
hidden paradise yet to expose nationally and internationally. Strategic plan for
adventure, eco, rural tourism should be formulated, executed and monitored to
flourish tourism.
